My little corner on this blog is really giving me a place to express myself.
Whether its about some waves, well mostly about waves… or whatever its about.
This time i just want to share a moment of pure happiness!
For many years i have been surfing to win contests, surfing to get better, surfing to make this and that turn…
At some point between being a young father and stop competing i simply had periods where i just didnt feel like going surfing.
Weird ahh… I think that period just came to an end… I hope!
Few days ago i was driving late evening for a windy surf in vorupor and had the best time in long time and thought, wow, i actually went surfing today and enjoyed that windy onshore 2ft. Surfing is fun!
And…. this morning i went for a morning surf in bunkers and it was like… i can’t explain…. it was magic!
The waves were so tiny that it didnt even make sense, but somehow i just had the best time singing and enjoying my surfing.
The same feeling i had on my first wave when i was 6 years. Pure rush of gliding on a wave.
After around 6 years of not having goals with my surfing, I’v found one. A pretty important one, its called FUN!
I mean, how stupid, right? but i kinda missed surfing just for surfing, and not for whatever other reason.
So tonight i feel surfed out after 2 hours of 1ft with few nice people in the water. And thats enough for me to put a smile on my face 🙂
That was a moment. Thanks